Be sure to read part 1 if you haven’t already.
Day 3: 35 kilometers
I woke up at 7 a.m., breakfast is always at 8:30 and we head to the horses around 10. I was not ready for today.
Spænir was my first ride and while the terrain was rough, so was he. He refused to canter or tolt so I rode his very uncomfortable trot the whole time. He also required constant pressure. Normally you ask with pressure and release when they do what they are told, but as soon as I released, he would stop what I asked. I was so frustrated and hoped I didn’t have to ride him again. I almost quit because I was so tired, but I’m so glad I didn’t. We rode in the front.
Breki was my second ride and definitely one of my favorites. She was smooth and tolted the entire time. We rode in the front.
At this break, three of the guides swam in the icy river while the rest of us ate lunch.
I got Hera again for my third ride of the day. It was some of the best riding of my life. The landscape was incredible, mountains, volcano, rivers, cliffs. We galloped for hours, just racing.
We lost control of the herd a couple times and had to slow down, stop, and even get off once to corral and calm them. The loose sheep were enjoying the shade of the nearby cliffs and got scared when they heard us coming. One jumped out in front and spooked the guide’s horse. I laughed for a good three minutes. We crossed lots of small rivers and the big, wide, deep one twice.
When we arrived at our cabin, many folks walked back to the river and iced our feet and ankles. Some did a yoga class spontaneously taught by one of the Canadians, others stretched.
Dinner was fish and potatoes.
Many went to bed early, others played cards while waiting for the single shower. Better than the night before where we had no electricity and no shower.
It was magical to hear the singsong of all the different languages spoken. As an American, it was easy for us because the tour was in English and the go-to language was English, but I love hearing everything else.
It was also super interesting to see such a wide range of ages all getting to know one another. We had some just graduated from university, and others who were older than 70.
Day 4: 50 kilometers
By day three I stopped taking as rigorous notes because of my exhaustion, but our days were fairly rhythmic and scheduled. The landscape, horses, and dinner were the only changes.
I rode a gelding named Aldur (another favorite), then a mare named Dari, then Breki again. This was one of my favorite days of riding as we mostly galloped through the most incredible landscapes including through what the host called the Valley of Thieves. There was one part where we climbed up the mountain and then back down again and I was just in shock that we took our horses there at all let alone rode them on that terrain. It must have been at least 45 degrees of incline. They all managed it perfectly. They’ve been running these trails since their births after all.
Before and after dinner of a delicious ham this evening, we spent hours in the natural hot spring. There was more than 20 of us just simmering in the boiling water, moving the cold hose in and out of our swimming hole to avoid scalding. It was exactly what our bodies needed.
Day 5: 35 kilometers
Even after the prior night’s soak, I woke up still so sore so I decided to join the ladies for morning yoga even though I really dislike it. I needed to stretch and get the blood flowing and it did really help.
I rode Börkur, Hera, and Aldur today. Börkur was another one of my favorites.
On one of our rides when I was in the front, we were crossing a river and on the other bank, the host’s horse went over a patch of mud and started to sink. The rest of us immediately stopped and tried to hold the herd behind us while the host and his mount navigated the situation. The pair ended up in the mud pit up to the horse’s belly and the host’s ankles. It was alarming to say the least but after a few minutes of strategizing, the horse managed to get himself unstuck and we all went a different trail.
Dinner was fish balls and the cook was kind enough to reheat some of the previous evening’s ham for me.
We spent a couple hours learning some Icelandic songs while the guides played guitars. It was cheesy, but actually really fun.
Day 6: 35 kilometers
I don’t know how but my body finally adjusted to our new volume of riding and I wasn’t as sore as I had been in previous days. I was heavily medicated with ibuprofen so I’m sure that had something to do with it.
I rode Börkur, Breki, Fannar and Aldur today with a little bit of excitement on Fannar.
I’m sure it was a combination of things including physical fatigue but I struggled to communicate with Fannar and it was also particularly challenging terrain, plus rain. This ride was the only one where I was genuinely concerned I was going to fall off. Typically proper equitation is a safer and more comfortable ride, but sometimes, you just have to hold on for dear life. Some animals you just don’t click with and this was one for me. We fought each other for more than two hours.
When we arrived at our next stop, one of my fellow riders saw me and grabbed the horse while I stumbled out of the paddock to black out. I have a medical condition that was triggered by the situation, or maybe it was part panic attack, I don’t know. But I was grateful she took care of untacking my horse for me because I might not have made it out of the paddock if not. After laying flat on my back for five minutes, I came to and started trying to move. My hands, feet, and face were all numb and tingly. Everyone was kind and very concerned but what I really needed was water, a snack and time to recover. I didn’t mention it to them, but I’m glad I didn’t have a seizure because that has happened before and it’s not fun.
These rides are really in the middle of nowhere. There are no roads, no towns, nothing. So if I needed emergency medical care, they would have had to call a helicopter. I absolutely did not need that, but they offered. I was fine and just needed an extended break. There were other women who took days off to rest injuries and one who couldn’t ride at all after day 3 because of an injury.
After I felt ready to get back on, we all swapped horses again and headed to our next guesthouse which happened to be the host’s home. It was an amazing guesthouse with lovely private rooms and comfy beds, even two showers!
Dinner was a yummy lamb roast with more Icelandic folk songs after.
Day 7: 20 kilometers
Our last day of riding was a short one and made is all feel bittersweet that our adventure was over. We took photos and exchanged contact information. I rode Breki and Hera over what felt like an infinite number of rivers. We said our good byes to the herd and scrubbed as much dust and grim from our tack as we could before heading up to the guesthouse.
I don’t remember what we had for dinner because dessert was some delicious treat I had never heard of and that’s all I remember. I think the cook shared the recipe with us. I should try to bake that some time.
It was an absolutely insane thing to do, but I think I’d do another trip like this, just maybe shorter and easier.
Bucket list: check!