Iceland

Riding Iceland on Horseback: Part 2

Be sure to read part 1 if you haven’t already.

Day 3: 35 kilometers

I woke up at 7 a.m., breakfast is always at 8:30 and we head to the horses around 10. I was not ready for today.

Spænir was my first ride and while the terrain was rough, so was he. He refused to canter or tolt so I rode his very uncomfortable trot the whole time. He also required constant pressure. Normally you ask with pressure and release when they do what they are told, but as soon as I released, he would stop what I asked. I was so frustrated and hoped I didn’t have to ride him again. I almost quit because I was so tired, but I’m so glad I didn’t. We rode in the front.

Breki was my second ride and definitely one of my favorites. She was smooth and tolted the entire time. We rode in the front.

At this break, three of the guides swam in the icy river while the rest of us ate lunch.

I got Hera again for my third ride of the day. It was some of the best riding of my life. The landscape was incredible, mountains, volcano, rivers, cliffs. We galloped for hours, just racing.

We lost control of the herd a couple times and had to slow down, stop, and even get off once to corral and calm them. The loose sheep were enjoying the shade of the nearby cliffs and got scared when they heard us coming. One jumped out in front and spooked the guide’s horse. I laughed for a good three minutes. We crossed lots of small rivers and the big, wide, deep one twice. 

When we arrived at our cabin, many folks walked back to the river and iced our feet and ankles. Some did a yoga class spontaneously taught by one of the Canadians, others stretched. 

Dinner was fish and potatoes.

Many went to bed early, others played cards while waiting for the single shower. Better than the night before where we had no electricity and no shower.

It was magical to hear the singsong of all the different languages spoken. As an American, it was easy for us because the tour was in English and the go-to language was English, but I love hearing everything else.

It was also super interesting to see such a wide range of ages all getting to know one another. We had some just graduated from university, and others who were older than 70.

Day 4: 50 kilometers

By day three I stopped taking as rigorous notes because of my exhaustion, but our days were fairly rhythmic and scheduled. The landscape, horses, and dinner were the only changes. 

I rode a gelding named Aldur (another favorite), then a mare named Dari, then Breki again. This was one of my favorite days of riding as we mostly galloped through the most incredible landscapes including through what the host called the Valley of Thieves. There was one part where we climbed up the mountain and then back down again and I was just in shock that we took our horses there at all let alone rode them on that terrain. It must have been at least 45 degrees of incline. They all managed it perfectly. They’ve been running these trails since their births after all.

Before and after dinner of a delicious ham this evening, we spent hours in the natural hot spring. There was more than 20 of us just simmering in the boiling water, moving the cold hose in and out of our swimming hole to avoid scalding. It was exactly what our bodies needed.

Day 5: 35 kilometers

Even after the prior night’s soak, I woke up still so sore so I decided to join the ladies for morning yoga even though I really dislike it. I needed to stretch and get the blood flowing and it did really help. 

I rode Börkur, Hera, and Aldur today. Börkur was another one of my favorites. 

On one of our rides when I was in the front, we were crossing a river and on the other bank, the host’s horse went over a patch of mud and started to sink. The rest of us immediately stopped and tried to hold the herd behind us while the host and his mount navigated the situation. The pair ended up in the mud pit up to the horse’s belly and the host’s ankles. It was alarming to say the least but after a few minutes of strategizing, the horse managed to get himself unstuck and we all went a different trail.

Dinner was fish balls and the cook was kind enough to reheat some of the previous evening’s ham for me.

We spent a couple hours learning some Icelandic songs while the guides played guitars. It was cheesy, but actually really fun.

Day 6: 35 kilometers

I don’t know how but my body finally adjusted to our new volume of riding and I wasn’t as sore as I had been in previous days. I was heavily medicated with ibuprofen so I’m sure that had something to do with it. 

I rode Börkur, Breki, Fannar and Aldur today with a little bit of excitement on Fannar.

I’m sure it was a combination of things including physical fatigue but I struggled to communicate with Fannar and it was also particularly challenging terrain, plus rain. This ride was the only one where I was genuinely concerned I was going to fall off. Typically proper equitation is a safer and more comfortable ride, but sometimes, you just have to hold on for dear life. Some animals you just don’t click with and this was one for me. We fought each other for more than two hours.

When we arrived at our next stop, one of my fellow riders saw me and grabbed the horse while I stumbled out of the paddock to black out. I have a medical condition that was triggered by the situation, or maybe it was part panic attack, I don’t know. But I was grateful she took care of untacking my horse for me because I might not have made it out of the paddock if not. After laying flat on my back for five minutes, I came to and started trying to move. My hands, feet, and face were all numb and tingly. Everyone was kind and very concerned but what I really needed was water, a snack and time to recover. I didn’t mention it to them, but I’m glad I didn’t have a seizure because that has happened before and it’s not fun. 

These rides are really in the middle of nowhere. There are no roads, no towns, nothing. So if I needed emergency medical care, they would have had to call a helicopter. I absolutely did not need that, but they offered. I was fine and just needed an extended break. There were other women who took days off to rest injuries and one who couldn’t ride at all after day 3 because of an injury. 

After I felt ready to get back on, we all swapped horses again and headed to our next guesthouse which happened to be the host’s home. It was an amazing guesthouse with lovely private rooms and comfy beds, even two showers!

Dinner was a yummy lamb roast with more Icelandic folk songs after.

Day 7: 20 kilometers

Our last day of riding was a short one and made is all feel bittersweet that our adventure was over. We took photos and exchanged contact information. I rode Breki and Hera over what felt like an infinite number of rivers. We said our good byes to the herd and scrubbed as much dust and grim from our tack as we could before heading up to the guesthouse.

I don’t remember what we had for dinner because dessert was some delicious treat I had never heard of and that’s all I remember. I think the cook shared the recipe with us. I should try to bake that some time.

It was an absolutely insane thing to do, but I think I’d do another trip like this, just maybe shorter and easier. 

Bucket list: check!

The Hardest Trip I’ve Ever Taken: Riding Iceland on Horseback: Part 1

I have been riding horses since before I can remember, formally with lessons since I was 7. Then I leased a pony, bought a couple of my own, rode at college and leased a horse for pleasure as an adult. I have plenty of riding experience. But I had never taking a riding vacation. My friend who had invited me to join her for a seven-day horseback riding trip in Iceland and I tentatively accepted. I knew enough about horses and had flashbacks of my 4-H showing days to know that seven days of all-day riding was going to be challenging both mentally and physically.

I researched reviews and videos and read as much as I could to learn what to expect from an experience like this but I still felt unprepared.

After rescheduling to this summer because of the pandemic, and training for as many hours as I could on my own leased horse, we took off for Iceland.

I packed the most number of bags I’ve ever packed, needing more gear than I thought possible and finally felt as ready as I could.

We knew we wanted to be in our best shape mentally so decided to arrive a few days early to get through our jet lag (and we planned a relaxing day at Blue Lagoon for the day after our ride before we left for home).
Here’s my mini diary play-by-play:

Day 1:

We were picked up from the local bus station and taken to where we’d start our 200 kilometer ride from the south side of the country through the Highlands and glaciers to the north coast of the country. There, we met the women we’d be riding with and our guides. We had ladies from Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland, Denmark, Sweden, Canada, and America. Many of our guides were from Germany since the host also happened to speak German. 

Dinner was super late since we got a late start, but it was delicious and that helped calm my nerves: lamb, fish, and potatoes. After dinner we got a quick rundown of our route on the giant map on the wall, then we got our barn time: 10 a.m., not too bad. 

We had a small bunk room in the guesthouse with just my travel partner and me so it felt private and an easy first night.

Day 2: 25 kilometers

Breakfast was always oatmeal, Skyr (a yogurt cheese situation), lunch meat, bread, nutella, peanut butter, etc. We ate breakfast and then packed our lunch with those ingredients since we wouldn’t have more than a picnic lunch stop along the way.

We walked over to the barn and met our herd for the first time, 90 of the fuzziest little horses I’d ever seen. The guides went into the paddock and bridled each horse one by one, calling out their new rider’s name. Each of us was handed a horse, told their name, maybe a line or two about them and then if we should ride them in the front or back of the herd. We groomed, saddled and hopped on.

Once we got moving, I found myself trying to remember to look up at the gorgeous scenery around us. The volcanic remains, mountains. This was truly the Highlands. But I was also so distracted by the path in front of my horse. Both worried because I myself would trip and fall, even taking it at a leisurely pace, and impressed that they were navigating it with ease.

Throughout the day we experienced really how dry Icelandic summers can be as the herd of 90 horses with us dusted up the landscape. Thank goodness for the buff the guides gifted each of us.

The first ride of the day was tough. I had never ridden an Icelandic horse and it had been a while since I’d ridden for more than an hour at a time. It took me a while to figure out the tolt and I was extremely self conscious of my riding skills. I felt in control and while I had minor muscle fatigue, I felt okay. Ómur was very patient, cantered lots and we rode in the back.

We stopped at Gullfoss for a break and to take photos.

My second mount was considerably more difficult to manage. She kept tripping, understandable but still frustrating. Her name was Lukka and she was a paint; we rode in the back.

I loved my third mount. She required a heavier hand than I’m used to, but was very responsive and easy to get into the tolt and even to sit her trot. Hera was comfortable near all the horses. We rode in the front.

We crossed four small rivers today.

Dinner was lamb soup.

The Canadian contingent bathed in the glacier river and sat outside all night in the cold. The Europeans joined the Americans around the table in the cabin.

My riding partner had allergies the whole first evening. I was exhausted but content. A little nervous to do this five more days in a row. Definitely took some ibuprofen.

I went to bed early, reading a book on my phone. The beds were surprisingly comfortable, about a six inch foam pad on our bunk beds.

Even though we all packed a ton of gear, some women were unprepared for the drastic changes in weather and were chilled throughout the night.

Read part 2.

Tourist Traps or Worth the Hype: 24 Best Things to Enjoy in Iceland

Tourism in Iceland has increased dramatically over the last decade, and for good reason. The gorgeous scenery, interesting food and culture and immersion in nature greatly outweigh the high cost of living and sometimes wet weather. I visited for the first time this month and after more than two weeks exploring, I wanted to share some of the common attractions and if I think you should add them or remove them from your own itinerary. Because of course you’re planning a trip here, right?

I should mention that the entire country is circumferenced by the Ring Road (Highway 1). We drove along the southern coast and then turned back because we didn’t have enough time (you need at least a full seven days and our two weeks were broken up by a horseback riding expedition). Everything below is within a five-hour drive of the Keflavik Airport and Reykjavik, the country’s capital.

Attractions in Iceland

Snorkeling Silfra at Thingvellir National Park
This was certainly a highlight of our trip. I don’t have much snorkeling experience, but I love finding activities you can only do in that specific location and snorkeling between tectonic plates fit that bill perfectly. We chose a tour through Airbnb Experiences and it was absolutely incredible. The guide was knowledgeable and helpful and just made it a perfect experience. It was just my travel partner and I with one other couple and we were the very first snorkelers in the water that day which meant we had the entire canyon to ourselves. The excitement we felt swimming in 34 degree water paired with the peace as we stared into the abyss below us were like nothing else. You’re only in the water for about 30 minutes which is plenty since it’s so cold. The dry suits keep you warm and your exposed lips eventually go numb. The hot cocoa after was a necessity. We certainly enjoyed a few miles of hiking and waterfalls throughout the rest of the park as well, including seeing where the first Icelandic parliament was located.

Jökulsárlón Iceberg Lagoon and Diamond Beach
I’m a little bit of a pessimist after seeing so many amazing Instagram photos of places like McDonald Lake in Glacier National Park and being disappointed that the rocks aren’t rainbow-colored. So I expected this one to be a little anticlimactic, especially since it was quite a drive out of the way for us. Fortunately, the chill of the glacier, the hovering fog, and the icy blues and blacks of the ice and sand made the landscape magical. I could sit and stare all day and in fact, we did spend many hours just wandering and taking photographs. Luckily, there are bathrooms in the parking lot.

Svartifoss and Skaftafell
Two lovely waterfalls, both just a couple miles hike from the parking lot (paid). They are pretty different, Svartifoss being the basalt columns. If you can find one closer to your other activities, feel free to skip these, but they are lovely to stop at if you happen to be passing through and need a place to stretch your legs along the Ring Road.

Fjaðrárgljúfur
Paired with Mögáfoss, this GORGEous canyon is a little tough to find, but worth turning around for if you miss it the first time around. It looks prehistoric, and rightly so as it’s more than two million years old.

Reynisfjara Beach
We assumed black sand beaches were uncommon because we don’t have many in the United States, but even though this one was very pretty, it was fairly crowded and there are other options to see black sand beaches. Most of them are actually. The viewpoint was nice, but a bit of a drive. Skippable if you find another option.

Sólheimasandur Plane Wreck
While wildly popular, this tourist trap asks folks to walk almost a mile from the parking lot each way to view a 1973 U.S. plane crash site. The views along the walk aren’t worth it, it’s hard to get a photo without other tourists in view, and it’s just not worth the stop.

Skógafoss Waterfall
A must-see cascade of the many you’ll encounter. We saw the brightest double rainbow and the photography opportunities were endless. You can also choose to walk up a mountain of stairs to see the waterfall from the top as well as a couple more down a short trailhead (Hestavaðsfoss). We also ended up eating at the Bistro Bar, which had the best Skyr cheesecake. Skyr is like Icelandic yogurt, but also kinda like cheese. They eat it for breakfast often.

Fence of Bras
Not a thing anymore. When I was researching my trip, I thought it would be a funny roadside attraction, but we saw less than a dozen bras scattered around and it wasn’t worth even pulling off the road for. Skip it. 

Seljalandsfoss
A very popular spot and for good reason. Make sure to hit this one up on a weekday or early in the morning because the parking lot floods with tour busses. Gljufrabui and Gljúfrafoss are excellent additions while you’re here. The second of the two actually reminded me of The Narrows in Zion National Park in Utah, in that if you’re there after a good rain, you’ll be walking in the river. You will bring more than one pair of hiking boots on this trip anyway and this hike is worth it.

Secret Lagoon Iceland
We didn’t make it to this one, but I wish we would have made time for it. Less corporate and touristy than Blue Lagoon (mentioned later), but still magical and relaxing. Let me know how it is when you go.

Geysir
Perhaps I’m spoiled, but this one was a bit of a disappointment and I happened to visit it twice on accident. Geysir itself is all but dormant and there are a handful of other smaller geothermal pools and geysers but not a fraction if the excitement of Yellowstone National Park in the United States. If you’re in the area, go ahead and stop, otherwise skip it.

Kerid Crater
We had this on our itinerary, but ran out of time so had to skip it. It looked pretty, but it’s another one I’d recommend visiting early in the day.

Fagradalsfjall Volcano
We weren’t sure if we could fit in this challenging six-mile hike, and weren’t sure it would still be erupting so we left this tentative. At the very end of my trip, my travel partner headed home the afternoon before my own flight so I ended up dropping her off and trekking it on my own. I am very comfortable traveling by myself, but a strenuous hike after my 200-mile horseback ride made me nervous. I’m so glad I made the slow-and-steady effort though because how often do you get the chance to see a volcano erupting in person? I ended up seeing friendly faces from my ride when I got to the top and we admired the lava flow and smoking mountain together. Not sure I can recommend this specific volcano for your trip because who knows what it’s status will be but if you are within 20 miles of a volcano, it’s worth the detour.

Blue Lagoon Iceland
Okay, yes. This is what most people come to Iceland to do. It’s touristy as hell, but it’s also quintessential. We decided we would visit because even if it was touristy we were still enjoying a spa and if it was that bad we could always leave. We booked ourselves a premium package with an in-water massage, all five facial masks, and a steak lunch with champagne and dessert (in our robes might I add). We purposefully went at opening on a weekday and enjoyed a deserted lagoon. We had plenty of space to ourselves, in lagoon cocktails, and lots of wandering around to find the hottest pockets of silica water. We ended up staying for almost six hours, much longer than we intended and we could have stayed another six had my partner not had a flight to catch. Go. Ignore what people say. Relax and enjoy the experience. I’ll never go to Iceland again without stopping here. It’s perfection.

Asmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum
Just not that exciting. I expected more signage about the pieces or just more in general. Skip it.

Perlan
We quite enjoyed this museum situation. After wandering around the exhibits for a bit we had lunch in the top part that spins like the Space Needle in Seattle. It’s pretty views of Reykjavik make it a nice stop, but I don’t recommend walking. It was a weird path. Better to take a ride share.

Hallgrimskirkja
The very elaborate lutheran church was built to show up the dainty catholic cathedral in the center of town. And what a flex. This church is stunning from the outside and the inside, be sure to catch it while it’s open to peek inside the main sanctuary.

Icelandic Phallological Museum
On the other end of the spectrum, I really wanted to visit this place as well. Where else would this exist? But it wasn’t a top pick for my travel partner so we skipped it. How freaking silly and fun!

Puffin and Whale Watching
We had a little mix up with our tours but the ones we ended up on were way better than we anticipated so it all worked out. We saw thousands of puffins and some even just feet away, and a small pod of whales who were very active out of the water. Iceland is definitely a hot spot for animal viewing.

Restaurants

The Soup Company: SOUPer yummy and fun space. Expect to wait for your food, but it’s totally worth it. My travel partner had an amazing lava soup served in a black bread bowl and I had curry nachos. I have never thought to put curry chicken on tortilla chips but oh my goodness was it delicious!

Friðheimar: The entire restaurant is focused on tomatoes. It’s actually a greenhouse system that grows a significant volume of the country’s vegetables in a sustainable manner (fertile soil from lava rock, thermal energy to power the grow lights and recycled water. The dining room is the greenhouse itself where you can see the growing crops and see exactly where the food on your plate is coming from. The menu is fascinating and includes expected items like bloody marys and pasta dishes, as well as surprising delights like tomato beer and tomato ice cream. The soup, salad and bread bar alone would have been a hearty meal, but we ordered half the menu. Nothing was less than delightful!

Hlemmur Mathöll: If you’ve read and previous blog posts, you know I can’t resist a good market! This one happened to be a couple blocks from our hotel and we visited more than once. There are plenty of options to sit and enjoy a cocktail, grab a small bite or indulge in a full meal. Grandi Mathöll is another market on the far north side of the city. Also yummy options.

Gandhi Indian Restaurant and Bar: I’m also a sucker for good Indian food and this one hit the spot. Quiet, local, great service and delicious food.

Lodging

Black Beach Suites: We loved this place. It’s part hostel, part apartments, but both are exceptionally clean and modern, yet cozy. Every apartment has unmatched views of the ocean and I can attest that both sunrises and sunsets are incredible. Despite jet lag, this was some of the best sleep of my trip. I’d definitely stay here again.

I have lots of other Google stars from places we didn’t make it to. Happy to help you plan your excursion to Iceland. If you’ve been and traveled the Ring Road, what did you love? What would you recommend?