The Hardest Trip I’ve Ever Taken: Riding Iceland on Horseback: Part 1

I have been riding horses since before I can remember, formally with lessons since I was 7. Then I leased a pony, bought a couple of my own, rode at college and leased a horse for pleasure as an adult. I have plenty of riding experience. But I had never taking a riding vacation. My friend who had invited me to join her for a seven-day horseback riding trip in Iceland and I tentatively accepted. I knew enough about horses and had flashbacks of my 4-H showing days to know that seven days of all-day riding was going to be challenging both mentally and physically.

I researched reviews and videos and read as much as I could to learn what to expect from an experience like this but I still felt unprepared.

After rescheduling to this summer because of the pandemic, and training for as many hours as I could on my own leased horse, we took off for Iceland.

I packed the most number of bags I’ve ever packed, needing more gear than I thought possible and finally felt as ready as I could.

We knew we wanted to be in our best shape mentally so decided to arrive a few days early to get through our jet lag (and we planned a relaxing day at Blue Lagoon for the day after our ride before we left for home).
Here’s my mini diary play-by-play:

Day 1:

We were picked up from the local bus station and taken to where we’d start our 200 kilometer ride from the south side of the country through the Highlands and glaciers to the north coast of the country. There, we met the women we’d be riding with and our guides. We had ladies from Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland, Denmark, Sweden, Canada, and America. Many of our guides were from Germany since the host also happened to speak German. 

Dinner was super late since we got a late start, but it was delicious and that helped calm my nerves: lamb, fish, and potatoes. After dinner we got a quick rundown of our route on the giant map on the wall, then we got our barn time: 10 a.m., not too bad. 

We had a small bunk room in the guesthouse with just my travel partner and me so it felt private and an easy first night.

Day 2: 25 kilometers

Breakfast was always oatmeal, Skyr (a yogurt cheese situation), lunch meat, bread, nutella, peanut butter, etc. We ate breakfast and then packed our lunch with those ingredients since we wouldn’t have more than a picnic lunch stop along the way.

We walked over to the barn and met our herd for the first time, 90 of the fuzziest little horses I’d ever seen. The guides went into the paddock and bridled each horse one by one, calling out their new rider’s name. Each of us was handed a horse, told their name, maybe a line or two about them and then if we should ride them in the front or back of the herd. We groomed, saddled and hopped on.

Once we got moving, I found myself trying to remember to look up at the gorgeous scenery around us. The volcanic remains, mountains. This was truly the Highlands. But I was also so distracted by the path in front of my horse. Both worried because I myself would trip and fall, even taking it at a leisurely pace, and impressed that they were navigating it with ease.

Throughout the day we experienced really how dry Icelandic summers can be as the herd of 90 horses with us dusted up the landscape. Thank goodness for the buff the guides gifted each of us.

The first ride of the day was tough. I had never ridden an Icelandic horse and it had been a while since I’d ridden for more than an hour at a time. It took me a while to figure out the tolt and I was extremely self conscious of my riding skills. I felt in control and while I had minor muscle fatigue, I felt okay. Ómur was very patient, cantered lots and we rode in the back.

We stopped at Gullfoss for a break and to take photos.

My second mount was considerably more difficult to manage. She kept tripping, understandable but still frustrating. Her name was Lukka and she was a paint; we rode in the back.

I loved my third mount. She required a heavier hand than I’m used to, but was very responsive and easy to get into the tolt and even to sit her trot. Hera was comfortable near all the horses. We rode in the front.

We crossed four small rivers today.

Dinner was lamb soup.

The Canadian contingent bathed in the glacier river and sat outside all night in the cold. The Europeans joined the Americans around the table in the cabin.

My riding partner had allergies the whole first evening. I was exhausted but content. A little nervous to do this five more days in a row. Definitely took some ibuprofen.

I went to bed early, reading a book on my phone. The beds were surprisingly comfortable, about a six inch foam pad on our bunk beds.

Even though we all packed a ton of gear, some women were unprepared for the drastic changes in weather and were chilled throughout the night.

Read part 2.